Quoted from :
http://www.itsamini.co.uk/check.htmWhat to look for when buying a Classic / Old Style Mini This is a insiders guide on what to look for when buying a classic Mini, as cute as they are,the classic Mini does like to rust.
Outside Bodywork
Firstly look at the scuttle, this is the area under the windscreen where the wipers reside, if this area is rusty it can be replaced, the panel alone is around £70.00, but remember to replace this panel the wings need to be cut off, so that starts getting expensive. Next the front panel, this is below the headlights and often corrodes excessively, again welded on as are all Mini panels so again not cheap to replace. The bonnet is a bolt on panel so nothing too difficult to replace.
What it should look like
Here is an image of the front scuttle where it meets the front wing, this image is taken on a car that is totally original, note the lack of corrosion and how the wing meets the scuttle.
What it shouldn't look like 
Note in this image, the panel joint between the wing and scuttle is totally smoothed over. This is a sure fire guarantee that filler has been used, also note the over spray on the side strips. This is the sort of car to be avoided unless it is very cheap
Next the A panels, these A shaped little panels reside between the wings and doors again a favourite rust spot. So if the Mini you are looking at needs all these panels replaced this we would class as a restoration project depending on the severity of the corrosion. Remember paint bubbling means rust underneath. If is for you to decide how bad the rust has advanced and can you live with it. Many people want there Mini as near pristine as possible. But if you have access to a mig welder or a friend that can weld this can de a distinct advantage!
Note the rust on these A panels aboveDoors - do they fit correctly?, are the hinges worn?, if the door skin is rusty that can be replaced, but if the frame is rusted you need to consider new doors. Again not cheap.
Rear wings - again not a expensive panel to buy but a major job to replace, in our experience these are normally not too bad.
Boot - a bolt on panel, so no issues there, but look under the rear bumper at the valance to check for rust.
Most of above is cosmetic and will not effect you during an MOT test unless its really excessive. Cheaper cars i.e. under £1,000 will invariably have rust in some or all of these areas
Inside the car
Lift all carpets up to see if the front and rear floors are rusted, check the inner sills, either pull away the carpet or tap with a light metallic object. Be careful here, any rust inside is usually an MOT failure issue. Rear compartments next to the rear seats, lift up the cardboard liners, that must be rust free in side as it is part of the inner sill section.
Inside the Boot
The subframe mounts are in here, so be vigilant, check the boot floor in total, paying attention to the top shock absorber mounts, any corrosion here is expensive to repair and dangerous. Check the boot floor at the rear near the boot lip, also where the subframe bolts to the boot floor. Lastly remove the battery to check the battery box.
This is the area exposed of the boot floor once the petrol tank is removed. Note how close the corrosion is to the two silver bolts that connect the subframe to the boot floor. This will most certainly fail any MOT. This was not an old Mini either - this image was from a 1996 P registered Mini Cooper 1.3i that had covered just 27,000 miles! This to repair properly and neatly is not a cheap exercise!
Underside Front SectionJack up the front of the car and remove both road wheels, check for corrosion near the front shockers, again an MOT failure, prod around the top of the inner wing where the fresh air vent pipe enters the car, both sides, excessive rust here will guarantee water leaks. Now check where the front subframe mounts to the floor, rust here again is very dangerous. Also check the front subframe, but usually these are OK as most Minis leak oil as standard.
Underside - SidesYes its time to check the sills, not dear to buy but still expensive to get fitted correctly and neatly, also check the floor pans for rust.
Underside - RearHave a prod in the inner wheel arch, at the top where the shocker mounts and the areas in front and behind the road wheel. Next the rear subframe, if that is corroded that can be a fairly horrendous task to replace and expensive.
Paintwork
Check for colour match and overspray inside door shuts and under wheel arches. If the car you are looking at shows the paint is bubbling the panel is starting to rust, whatever the seller says!
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Wow.. thank God the Mini that I got was in almost tip top conditions for all these....
Here is the Dell USB Speakers I am using. I picked this model because of the sound clarity and it is cheap. And also because it uses USB as the power supply, I can easily power it using a Car Adapter without much wiring work.
I hide all the cables under the carpeting on the Mini's dashboard. leaving only the USB and Audio Input jack. Approx 10cm in length.
The speakers are mounted on both ends. Fasten down using screws.
And, the music comes from the iPOD Nano! You can see the Car Adapter in the background; powering the Speakers. 
This was the original 3rd Brake Light... 
Not so appealing. And I hate bulbs because they take time to 'light up'... and the light is kinda dim.
Here is the picture of the LED brake light I bought.. Just cost RM 12.00
Removing the screws of the old Brake Light. (To remove the stand)
Installing the new LED Brake Light. It uses double sided tape. So I made sure the glass is clean before sticking it up.
After hooking up the wires (RED for +VE and Black for -VE).. it is DONE!!
Let's take a look at the throttle cable. The original setting was a bit slacked and the cable is kinda old, so it is a bit rough.
Using the T-Wrench, I loosen up the nut that holds down the throttle cable. The cable comes off easily and I removed it from the bracket.
I repeat this process and check the other end of the cable (which is at the pedal) to make sure that the oil have flowed thru the whole cable and reached the other end. 
OPPS !!! The gear stick came out... 
A close up picture of the 'cap'. It is a half-sphere shaped plastic. And it was serviced before previously. They added a rubber piece to make sure the cap stays in shape.. hmm, I will service this again later. Must find some metal sheet to mold it into a 'cap'
Anyway, the installation is kinda easy.. Remove the bracket that holds the 'cap' in place, put in the gear stick and install the bracket again from the top. (Note : Gear knob have to be removed to do so)
Rust everywhere, although engine looked good; it can;t be started. And it is also infested with RATS !! Rats droppings all over the place ! The owner willing to let go at an unbelievable price, however it was too risky. We had to skip the offer.
and... This is when the fun start !!
